July 2018I had a choice... put the wings on before the headliner and enjoy easy access for aileron rigging and turnbuckle saftying or, put the headliner in while the wings and struts were out of the way. I chose the latter and in hindsight I think its really six of one, half a dozen of the other.
Anyway, I secured the bows in place, with the headliner hung from them.
Note: refer to the Fuselage section 2015 for details on headliner pre-fitting.
The 040 aluminium strips were a bit of a pain to thread into the hem but all ends up good
1500 grit wet paper is used to blend out the damage.
Anyway this is the original configuration.
I somehow managed to get an extra washer under the float valve seat which messed up the float level.
Note I have the 3lbs hammer ready just in case! :)
If you've watched the video you know the second run was better, but the throttle cable failed and the crankshaft seal had a small leak.
As is typically the case I paid more attention the second time around and noticed that there is actually not much of a groove. The spring pops out quite easily if the seal split is not kept aligned.
To be sure, I spent some more time polishing the crank with 400 paper and light oil.
Then 180 grit paper to put the so-called "helix" on per the Continental service bulletin.
I received a new throttle cable but unfortunately it didn't fit. After some back and forth with McFarland, I ordered another cable. Specifically one meant for a Cessna 206.
There is not much room for the screw so I cut a small countersink on the inside to keep the profile of the shop head low.
The fairings can't really go anywhere if they're a good fit in the space, so I put 'P' section on the inboard edges and made spacers with vinyl tubing outboard, then a dab of Proseal under the flange where the nails used to go.
Seems I didn't take any photos of the aileron installation, but the cables need to be fed through the gap fairings first!
So the routing was changed to a far more direct path over the exhaust and the cable is long enough to allow for exhaust shroud removal without disturbing the throttle control.
Unfortunately the C206 firewall is apparently further aft so the fairleed on the cable is in the wrong place. As an alternative I used this grommet edging coupled with Proseal. The old hole is plugged with a stainless tinnerman washer and machine screw.
I used .100" chromoly for the fork and 050" for the bracket.
Lastly, I salvaged my original Taylorcraft knob and installed a 1/4-20 heli-coil to make it fit the new cable.
I wanted door pulls to make it easier to close the doors from inside. I made a couple of U channels with nutplates and secured them to the inside of the door panels with Proseal.
I had it hung in place with the pins in but not secured. Next thing I know it cartwheeled onto the floor, landing on the top aft corner.
Once I calmed down, I was able to straighten the dog-eared corner, feather the damaged paint and mask it off. I just sprayed the top corner. Thankfully it's not a high-vis location. (sh*$&*t!)
The cowling intake grills
The original steel rivets were lower profile but still ended up chafing into the aluminium flange.
Some minor trimming of the front baffle seals required.
Oh, I decided to use #8 countersunk machine screws and nuts for the lower latches. There's room for the nuts and this will allow easy removal if repairs are required in the future.
Station information is not complete in the various factory publications so a plum line is dropped from the leading edge of the wing to measure actual arms.
Your results will vary!
822lbs without pants.
There was a collection of tasks that ideally are best accomplished before the boot cowl installation.
Plumbing needed to be sorted out.
CF-CLR had soft aluminium and copper tubing from the instrument panel through the firewall to the engine with no breaks (but many bends and re-bends, chafe and cut points.
I decided to replace all.
First the vacuum connection from the venturi to the turn & slip indicator.
I included wiring for a right side PTT just in case, and secured the mag wires. Then the right map box goes in.
(altimeter failed the leak test and needed to be sent for certification anyway).
Floor panels next. Some struggling to get the holes to line up but eventually it fits.
The fuel filler neck doughnut is also installed
The boot cowl is ready for installation, but first there area couple of other things to take care of.
It was still cold in the hangar so the spotlights were used to warm things up a bit.
With this configuration of the panel and aluminum frames (in lieu of the original plastic ones) it's not possible for any aspect of the panels to interfere with elevator operation. (there is an AD on this)
I decided to use stainless hardware.
I also used nylon washers. This is something I did on my 172 and has worked well.
The nylon prevents the screws from fretting off the paint and then working their way into the relatively soft aluminium of the cowl.
Proseal to bond it in place and seal around the fitting.
Almost ready for the engine, but first I'll connect the cabin head cable while access is easy.
At this point I put a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank and checked everything for leaks and flushing/functioning of the primer system.
Note, I used shielded wire and the mag switch is not grounded to the aircraft frame. The shield is connected to the mag case and the ground terminal of the switch which effectively means the shields are only grounded at one end. Hopefully this handles any potential EMI issues.
The A65 tends to be difficult sometimes in this regard and I want to be sure I have oil pressure when she fires up for the first time since 1989.
I added an extra quart of oil so the tank was well over filled. With the pressure line disconnected, spark plugs removed and the prop installed temporarily, I pulled the engine through and after only a few seconds or so had oil flowing out of the hose.
Then I reconnected the flex hose, loosened the fitting at the gauge, and pulled the engine through a couple more turns to get the air out of the tube.
That completes the bulk of the powerplant installation.
The control wheel is magnesium and particularly susceptible to corrosion. After taking the time to do a proper conversion coating, epoxy primer and topcoat I wanted to avoid drilling any holes. So I made a mount for the PTT switch and bonded it to the back of the wheel with Proseal.
and covered with glareshield material.
I purchased this baggage compartment from Aircraft Spruce. It's well made but unfinished of course and doesn't take into consideration the trapezoidal shape of the space, but provides a decent starting point.
Also added some leading edge abrasion tape were the fairing contacts the gear fabric.
A worthwhile addition is to use a little lacing to secure the instrument nuts. Better than chasing them around the cockpit floor.
That little hand pump is good for 20,000'.
and I put the old seat cushions in for a "seat fitting".... it's a little more cozy compared to what I remember! perhaps I got the sling too taught.
I had Nigel from Thunder Bay Aviation come by to have a look and we discussed the seats and door panels. The plan is to cut about 3/4" of both the seat cushion and back to create a bit more space.
I added the rubber extrusions to protect the paint on the gear legs during removal and installation.
Bonded in place with superglue.
This also allows for universal head rivets for the nutplates which is a little easier.
I had taken time during the winter to do a dimensional check, inspect for corrosion and dress out all the minor nicks and scratches.
Next the headliner... oh joy!
December 2016I'm using the heading "Final Assembly" as it might be used in a production environment, that is, the assembly of all the various sub assemblies and components into one BC12D. This in no way suggests that completion of the project is going to happen soon!
With all but the wings and ailerons painted I decided the next step would be to get the fuselage on its wheels. The longer it's on the rotisserie and tail stand, the higher the chance of damage. I also need the steel and casters for the wings, and having the fuselage safely on its wheels makes it easier to move around the shop.
Having said this, there were two unanswered questions nagging at the back of my mind, i.e. the location of the rudder cable fairleads, and the elevator trim push-rod opening.
I choose the latter as I felt having the pin rotating in the steel bushings attached to the elevator was better than having the aluminium tab moving relative to the pin.
Referring back to the fuselage section, I did not have the old fabric (I purposely trashed it as I removed it as I wanted to make sure I couldn't copy anyone else's mistakes!).
and installed and rigged the rudder stops.
At this point I realized I was missing a couple of spacers for the wheel so I turned a couple out of chromoly.
I wanted to plate them for corrosion protection.
The doors were installed temporarily again to mark, cut and fit the strikers.
By the way, my intention is to leave inspection access openings unopened unless absolutely necessary. The lower aft inspection opening is one that can do more harm than good. An adequate inspection of the the area can be conducted from the upper panels so leaving it closed will keep out water and debris.
The leafspring bolt was easily installed from the upper access panel.
So the panel gets crinkle black finish (which I believe is what CF-CLR had from the factory).
I also installed tinnerman nutplates for the map-box door hinges. I think originally there may have been clip-nuts, or perhaps more likely just Pk screws into the aluminium of the panel. But there is not very much space there and the screws would almost certainly end up jammed against the fuselage cross-tube (as evidenced from the marks I dressed out of said tube).
The drawing also calls out two mounting screw locations in the lower outboard corners of the instrument panel.
What this means is that the whole panel, instruments, and at least 75% of the map-boxes and contents, are secured by just 4 No 6 screws.
Anyway I upgrade to 6 # 8 washer-head machines screws and used clamps as shown.
However, as can be seen here, the steel tubes cause almost 60 degrees deflection.
The solutions in the field vary widely but the one I had could have definitely been a contender for a "furthest from acceptable" prize.
Glad I never threw it away!
A much easier way is to attach the spring first, then fiddle the bellcrank through the leg tubes and into position.
Then installed the adjuster locks.
I did cut them, because two of the holes have the gear leg tubes behind them causing the screws to bottom out easily. I cut them all cuz there's no sense carrying extra metal around.
The high spots needed to be removed from the new linings. This involved gluing a piece of emery paper to one of the shoes, installing the wheel and turning it back and forth while gradually winding in the adjuster.
This had the advantage of a larger OD so I could make another felt dust seal.
After a final cleaning the bearings are packed and everything assembled.